Tanto a aprender..

Foi em Portugal, na Nazaré, onde há uns anos começou o tow-in... ontem bateu-se um record, a maior onda do mundo surfada.

Garret McNamara.

Vendo as imagens penso no tanto que tenho a aprender sobre coragem. Tanto a aprender sobre "screwing it all up and get back on track again", sobre fazer coisas mal feitas, asneiras grossas, e sobre fazer algumas bem feitas. Aprender sobre ganhar, sobre perder, sobre a vida, sobre a morte e o fino fio do limite que as separa e que todos dias, com ou sem consciência disso, passamos, de cá para lá, de lá para cá...




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